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#Building a vintage swamp cooler how to#

1 5/8" exterior wood screws (you will probably have to settle with the inferior phillips head models for these, most stores don't carry them with star heads).3" exterior wood screws (preferably star head, because they're just so much better in every possible way).1 - 56 quart plastic storage container (you do not need the lid).14 gauge galvanized steel welded wire fence (you only need a few feet of it, so buy the smallest roll available, and use the rest for tomato cages or something (like a FENCE! But here at instructables, we all know that it's blasphemous to use anything for it's intended purpose, so forget I ever said that)).2 - 24" by 36" Cut-to-fit air filter pads (or swamp cooler pads, but actual swamp cooler pads do not improve performance enough to justify the massive increase in cost, and they're a lot harder to find depending on the area you live in).Actually, the pump I used was bought for exactly that, and had been sitting around being useless and taking up space ever since until I turned it into a swamp cooler.) Also, this way, if your basement floods, you will have a pump capable of getting rid of the water in a timely manner. 1 - submersible utility pump (Get the cheapest one available, all of these pumps fall into the category of extreme overkill for this project, all of them will move water at a much higher rate than we really need, however I have found that having fast-moving water discourages algae, mold, and other junk from growing in the cooler.1 - 13" fan (or any similar fan, you will be cutting a hole to insert the fan into, so if your fan is a different size or shape, just cut a different hole).2 - 3/4" female hose thread x 1/2" poly drip irrigation tube compression fit swivel adapter.

1' of 1/2" poly drip irrigation tubing (home depot usually has rolls of the stuff that you can buy by the foot).

1 - 3/4" male threaded to unthreaded PVC pipe adapter.

Simplified: buy 1 8' length of 3/4" PVC pipe.

2 - 26" 3/4x8 (I think they sell them as 1x8s)įor a simplified wood shopping list, you need to buy 2 8' 2x4s, 2 2'x4' sheets of 3/8" plywood, and 1 8' 3/4" 2x8.

2 - 13" 2x4 w/45 degree angled end (wait to cut these out, I will explain what I mean later).

As I am sitting here writing this right how, the outside temperature is 94 degrees Fahrenheit, my swamp cooler is sitting on top of the dresser next to me, and the house is a comfortable 67 degrees. The only downside to the unexpected level of effectiveness was that I was denied the opportunity to gloat to the rest of my family about having the only air-conditioned room in the house. What I ended up building was far more powerful than I expected, able to cool not only my bedroom, but also most of the rest of my house, adding up to a total of about 2,000 square feet of floor space being cooled by 20-30 degrees Fahrenheit. I thought "Now there's an idea." and, after looking at a few diagrams of commercial swamp coolers, decided to build one for myself.

Then, I remembered that my mom had come home from playing roller derby one day during the height of the heat wave saying about how it had gotten so hot that Rose City Rollers had rented a bunch of swamp coolers to cool off the roller derby arena. I immediately discounted buying/building a conventional air conditioner, because I have neither the hundreds of dollars required to buy one, nor the knowledge required to build one.

#Building a vintage swamp cooler how to#

So, I got to thinking about how to cool off. This has made for a rather hellish experience during these weeks. Over the past few weeks, the temperature in my hometown has regularly topped 100 degrees, even reaching record-breaking heights on several occasions. Hi, in this Instructable I will be showing you how to make a large, efficient, and economical swamp cooler powerful enough to cool most of an average suburban home.